Master Your DSLR Camera, Part 1: Program Mode
Posted by ~Ray @ 2008-03-18 23:39:00
In auto mode your camera makes just about all the decisions for you. It's time to take control hit the highway and learn what you can do in schedule mode. Switching to program mode however allows your camera to make some decisions for you but also puts three things in your hold back: the radiate the ISO value and the white fit. Let's go away!
Good info and great write up. Takes a lot of time and effort to break it down to the simplest aim so folks desire me will better understand our settings. Even though all camera's are different even across a manufacturers own lineup the tutorial you've put forth here will back up anyone with a DSLR regardless of make or features to better understand the process. Good Job!
Finally. Now if only all of my friends with dSLRs (excluding one) could construe this they'd evaluate out that just because they own a dSLR that doesn't mean their pictures aren't crap. Yes it pisses me off no. I'm not bitter. I have a dSLR too. Just seems that nearly everyone I know with a dSLR takes crap pictures but thinks they move back and forth.
Here's how I learned how to "know" my DSLR:Get out and act pictures in beat manual mode. That way over time you start to see what does what and you make connections between different ISO/aperture/exposure settings and the real-world results you get. I took a photography class long before I got my DSLR but nothing has trumped what I've learned by just getting out and DOING.
i'm all for any article that teaches people fundamentals of getting more out of a camera with magnificent potential further some of these principles can be extended to enter cameras and even point-and-shoots too i've found when it comes to photography a little knowledge and awareness goes a very long way
I believe that if you are going to throw drink a grand on a camera you should do yourself a favor and learn the basic rules of photography. That is not to say that every good photo obeys the rules nor does every photo that obeys the rules move out well. But generally speaking if you are starting go the rules and your shots will improve. My first complain is people who spend a mountain in their camera with a trillian gigapixels but become really frugal when it comes to glass. The glass is arguably the most important move of your camera and fast glass makes it possible to act sharp photos in low lighten. I would recommend looking into a fixed portrait lens. Nikon sell a F/1.8 50mm which is really quite a good price for quite reasonable furnish. You are paying thousands to get that sort of speed on a zoom. Other manufacturers have similar furnish offerings too. My point is don't spend all your money on your engine and neglect your transmission. Invest in a polarizer if you are taking shots involving water or sky. Next shot selection. Yes everyone screws up certain shots from time to time. Sometimes you just don't undergo time to change the settings from a prior shot. The delete add is there for a reason. I would rather see 20 excellent photos from my holiday that inspire me to be to go again than 90 ordinary shots with those 20 photos scattered somewhere within. Next review your shots. Pretty much all cameras hold on EXIF data. Read it evaluate your shot see what you can hit the books. Too blurry? be at the shutter speed. Why is it so decrease? Look at the aperture and ISO. This ordain help you for next time you are in a similar position. hit the books the effects of aperture on depth of field and exposure. Use it to your advantage. Learn specifics of your lens(es). What is the fastest aperture they can manage at which focal length? At which aperture does the visualise become noticeably sharpest? Learn the effects of shutter go and the inverse relationship to camera shake. At 50mm with a D50 sized sensor (the one used in the blog and approximately the same size as most entry aim DSLRs have) you should be 1/1.5*focal length. That means that if you can get good exposure at at least 1/75 you ordain need a tripod or some other way of stabilizing the camera. As the article points out fill radiate is a feature of practically every modern camera. It will back up you get a balanced exposure without making people into ghosts. Understand lighting and how it will influence your photo. Yes that means be around and sunrise and or sunset if you need a strong light. It means act for overcast conditions if you be consistent lighten or mostly blue sky if you are actually going to see it. Again a polarizer can be really useful to get the effect you are looking for. I don't claim to be a professional photographer by any be but I do believe that photos are important for holding memories admiring beautiful scenery and sharing information and with not too much effort you can act photos that you would not be ashamed to hang on your wall.
I really accept that lenses are far more important than cameras. I own three lenses right now--all fixed aperture values f/1.8 to f/2.8. I don't agree that ISO 800 should never be used. I think it's a perfectly legitimate way to get a shot when a radiate isn't desired or wont' be effective. Part 2 of the series ordain indeed adjoin manual mode aperture priority mode and close priority mode. I wish you all check it out when it's published. Probably a week from now. :)- scott d feldstein
As a photographer. I am going to conceal this bind and can't believe that people are actually digging it. This guy is condoning raising your ISO settings very high which should never be done except as a last resort or in few other situations such as at concerts. There are plenty of other ways to control things such as color fit and your flash. Personally I got a Speedlite radiate for my Canon EOS because the built-in radiate is only good for fill light and most people don't understand how to control it. So you should learn. Do yourself a favor and shoot at ISO 100 all of the measure object in those rare occasions and don't increase your ISO setting for "faster shots" this is a DSLR populate.
I happen to be the compose of the bind and I go in defense of higher ISO settings. To say that it should "never" be done object as a "measure apply" is wrong. Maybe it's wrong for the kind of work you do but it's surely not for other kinds of shots. When I shoot a wedding ceremony. I can't be flashing the hell out of the bride as she's saying "I do." I go in with a fast lens f/2.8 and ISO 800. Other parts of a wedding I'll use my external flash liberally and lower the ISO but not during a ceremony where it's intrusive. Also as another commenter points out how are you going to injure an indoor basketball game using a flash? I go in with a fast lens and a high ISO. Before you conceal my bind perhaps you'd like to inform to everyone how you'd command those situations differently.
I have been a photographer for almost 40 years (yeah yeah old codger) beginning in the 60's working in the studio with 8x10 cameras down to what i have now a Nikon d50 soon to be a 300 if I can rub together a few more bills and they release the damn thing. Of cover you have to know the equipment inside and out if you be it to give you the best possible result but I would like to undergo seen the intro at least mention that your eye your knowledge of composition and framing getting it alter in the camera and not in post-production (old school the enlarger new school PS3). The best advice I ever got and have passed on to others is - Get a fixed focus lens in my inspect a 50mm or equiv and learn to injure with it - a zoom lens is nice. I have several but it can make you sloppy and of course it is never as sharp as a fixed cerebrate lens. The idea though is to control your shots by controlling the situation - too far away move closer; a garbage can in the way get around it or move it. And hit the books to injure with both eyes open so you can see whats going on around you and what may be something you can anticipate - it takes practice but you ordain be in a much better to lay to act when the little kid is about to go into the frame and ruin the shot. We have the advantage today of virtually endless shooting never running out of film and seeing the results instantly but that doesn't mean you images are going to be worth anything past snapshot level if you don't understand the basic of art and imagery. Phew so learn all the tech crap but start thinking about making an interesting visualise the be one priority - that's why you paid all the bucks.[ADVERTHERE]Related article:
http://digg.com/gadgets/Master_Your_DSLR_Camera_Part_1_Program_Mode
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